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Installation
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Easy Install.Panel Brick Co. has provided these simple steps to help you install your new panel bricks. Read below to find out more.
Step 1. Cut extra pieces of 1/2''
backer board into 4 3/4'' x 16'' sections (for corner trim).
Step 2. Starting at the corner, screw the trim strip's 16'' side, flush with the corner line. Screw the strips from the bottom chalk line (excluding the 3/4'' channel line) to the soffit.
Step 3. Align a PANEL with the chalk line, placing the end flush against the trim strip.
Step 4. Screw the first half of the panel with at least six screws.
Step 5. Pull the second half of the panel (not yet screwed) slightly away from the wall and interlock with the second panel.
Step 6. Press the panels against the wall, checking the alignment of both panel tops with the chalk line.
Step 7. Screw the second half of the first panel.
Step 8. Re-align the second panel with the chalk line and screw the first half.
Step 9. Repeat steps 4 through 7 until reaching end of wall.
Step 10. Use one of the following three recommended methods for joining the PANELS at the corners:
Method #1: Cut the panel with a masonry saw, and screw it using recommended interlocking procedure laid out in sets 4 through 7 above.
Method #2:
A. Interlock the last panel and screw it up, allowing the panel to protrude past the corner.
B. Using a razor knife, cut the backing board flush with the second wall.
C. Bend the panel back toward the second wall. The backer board will break along the cut. (Trim excess or uneven parts flush.)
Method #3:
A. Score the back of the panel with a razor knife at a point flush with the second wall.
B. Using a claw hammer or similar tool, pry brick from the backer board along the cut.
C. Screw the panel completely to the wall, breaking the portion protruding beyond the corner.
Method #1: Cut the panel with a masonry saw, and screw it using recommended interlocking procedure laid out in sets 4 through 7 above.
Method #2:
A. Interlock the last panel and screw it up, allowing the panel to protrude past the corner.
B. Using a razor knife, cut the backing board flush with the second wall.
C. Bend the panel back toward the second wall. The backer board will break along the cut. (Trim excess or uneven parts flush.)
Method #3:
A. Score the back of the panel with a razor knife at a point flush with the second wall.
B. Using a claw hammer or similar tool, pry brick from the backer board along the cut.
C. Screw the panel completely to the wall, breaking the portion protruding beyond the corner.
Step 11. Place a brick corner against the trimmed panel for flush fit.
Step 12.
Screw a piece of 4 1/2'' wide trim board to the second wall, making sure the lead edge is flush with the face of the
backer board on the first wall. Check the following alignments...
A. The 4 1/2'' edge is aligned with the top of panel chalk line.
B. 16 1/2'' edge is flushed with the front edge of the backing material.
A. The 4 1/2'' edge is aligned with the top of panel chalk line.
B. 16 1/2'' edge is flushed with the front edge of the backing material.
Step 13. Repeat instructions 1 through 6 to near the center of the wall.
Step 14.
Return to your original starting point (the front corner), start the bottom panel row, working in the opposite direction to the point where the seam will be located.
NOTE :
Upon completion of the lower course of PANELS and prior to applying the second row, remember... Each panel should be supported on the wall by twelve (12) or more fasteners driven through the panel into the wall behind the panel. The lower course of PANELS is NOT a foundation, nor is it intended to support the next row above it.
STRICT ATTENTION TO GRADE IS REQUIRED FOR EACH PANEL AS IT IS APPLIED
*A moisture barrier is required with above installation.
Mortar Application
How to apply the Mortar.
Step 1:
Thoroughly mix the grout with water. Use approximately one gallon of water per 80 lbs. of mortar. The thickness or consistency of the mortar is important. It should be able to flow through the bag easily, but stay in the joint when applying. A good test is to stick your hand in the bucket and squeeze the mortar through your fingers, you should be able to turn your hand over and the mortar shouldn't drop off. When mixing a mortar dye with the mortar, do not use more than 1/2 the box of dye for every 80 lbs. of mortar. Also, be sure to mix the dye and mortar in a dry state.
Step 2 :
Fill the baker's bag with mortar (make sure the metal tip is in the bag) and while holding the bag at a 45 degree angle, twist the bag so the mortar will flow out the tip. Be careful not to get any mortar on the face of the brick. If you do, don't wipe off immediately, wait until it turns stiff and then scrape it off with a putty knife. After the mortar is in the wall it will start to set up.
Step 3:
When you see the moisture darkening the edge of the brick around the mortar and the mortar becomes crumbly to the touch, start to strike the joints. Don't let the mortar get too hard. Always strike the vertical joints first then come back and strike the horizontal joints. Wait until the mortar becomes hard, then brush the wall with a soft bristle brush.